INGREDIENTS

INSTRUCTIONS

PICADILLO
NOGADA (WALNUT SAUCE
This is one of the famous dishes of Mexico: large, dark green chiles
poblanos stuffed with a pork meat picadillo and covered with a walnut
sauce. It is decorated with red pomegranate seeds and the large-leafed
Italian parsley.
The recipe is said to have been concocted by the grateful people of Puebla,
who were giving a banquet in honor of Don Agustin de Iturbide's Saint's
day, August 28 in 1821. He and his followers had led he final revolt
against Spanish domination; as self-proclaimed emperor he had just signed
the Treaty of Cordoba. All the dishes at the banquet were concocted of
ingredients of the colors of the Mexican flag; in this dish were the green
chiles, the white sauce, and the red pomegranate seeds.
It is almost worth a special journey to Mexico City or, better still, to
Puebla toward the end of August. By then it is well on in the rainy season,
and the fresh crop of walnuts will have been gathered. The peasants come in
from the country with them, and you can see them sitting on the sidewalks
at every street corner selling little piles of a dozen walnuts. Sometimes
they are crammed into small paper bags, but the top one will always be
cracked open so that you can see its quality. The flesh is tender, almost
milky, with a very delicate flavor, and the papery skin around it can be
peeled off easily. Practically every restaurant will have chiles en nogado
on the menu, and no family fiesta will be complete without them during
their short season.
You really have to use chiles poblanos for this dish. Bell peppers or the
canned, peeled green chiles are no substitutes. The walnuts should be very
fresh, but in a pinch you could use the commercially packed walnuts, which
soften and swell when soaked in water overnight.
One of the points most vehemently discussed among Mexican cooks is whether
the chiles for this dish should be capeados (covered with beaten egg and
fried) or not. I agree with those who say no; I think the rich sauce and
batter together is too much. They are served warm with the cold sauce
poured over them at the last moment. But if you personally prefer them
capeados, then do it that way.
* Many people like a slightly sweet sauce, while others prefer it a little
salty--it is entirely a matter of taste. If you prefer sweet, substitute 1
1/2 tablespoons of sugar for the 1/2 teaspoon salt.
Prepare the picadillo:
Cut the meat into large cubes. Put them into the pan with the onion,
garlic, and salt and cover with cold water. Bring the meat to a boil, lower
the flame and let it simmer until just tender--about 40 to 45 minutes. Do
not overcook. Leave the meat to cool off in the broth.
Strain the meat, reserving the broth, then shred or chop it finely and set
it aside. Let the broth get completely cold and skim off the fat. Reserve
the fat.
Melt the lard and cook the onion and garlic, without browning, until they
are soft.
Add the meat and let it ook until it begins to brown.
continued in part 2

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